Inspect the boxes for obvious damage at the time of delivery. If there is visible damage of the box, you need to open the box and inspect further before signing the delivery receipt. If you suspect internal damage, open immediately! Conduct this further inspection at once and if concealed damage is discovered, it must be reported to the carrier within 15 days. Keep any damaged goods and their packaging materials for later inspection.
Even if no damaged is suspected, open the carton within 24 hours and make a thorough inspection. Do not let the boxes get wet as the popcorn used for packing is made of cornstarch and will melt onto the light.
It is difficult to remove once it has melted. Save the packing materials and boxes in case you need to return the lanterns. All Lanterns come with a limited lifetime warranty against defects in copper workmanship of materials.
Damage caused by misuse, abuse and acts of God or nature are excluded. During the warranty period,we will repair or replace, as we determine, any lantern or part that is defective as described in this warranty statement.
All lantern installations must be made by a licensed plumber and must meet all local building codes. This warranty covers both parts and labor but customer is responsible for shipping costs to the factory. Warranty goes into effect at the time the end user purchases a lantern from a dealer or distributor.
The copper portions of the lantern are warranted against defects in workmanship or materials for the life of the unit. The steel portions of the lantern body are warranted against defects in workmanship or materials for one year from date of purchase. We will replace glass broken during original shipment by normal means. Normal shipment is by common carrier, strapped down to a pallet. Glass broken during shipping by means other than normal transportation is not covered. It is natural for copper to change color as it ages.
Environmental influences determine the speed and nature of these color changes and they are neither predictable nor warranted in any manner. Finishes are a natural patina and are not warranted. All mechanical and electrical components carry one-year warranty against defects in workmanship or materials. Thank you for your outwardly cooperative spirit and assistance. It is rare to find in most of my vendor dealings someone is so overtly helpful.
We sincerely appreciate your effort to assist us in being educated on the best way to get success from your product. Sincerely, Mike Power, Corporate Electric. If you are located in the Houston area I highly recommend Stephen Delgado for installation and service of gas lanterns.
Building codes require that gas lights are installed by a licensed plumber in order to conform to your local codes. Be sure to consult with a licensed plumber so that you will conform with your specific building codes. All natural gas and propane lanterns include a shut-off valve located at the base of the burner stem. For your safety do not store or use gasoline or any other flamable vapors and liquids in the vicinity of the gas appliances. Extinguish any open flames.
Note The minimum clearance from combustible construction is 12 inches from the top and 6 inches from the side. Installation shall be in accordance with CAN1-B If mounting on brick or masonry, the appropriate anchor will need to be used not supplied with lantern.
All hook-ups must be made within the width, depth and height of the lantern mounting box. Check for any leaks using a soap solution. If bubbles appear, shut off main gas line and tighten all fittings, then recheck.
If you lantern has a brown or black patina finish be sure that your installer wears plastic gloves to prevent getting fingerprints in the finish. Article Summary. Part 1. Plan on setting up your transformer box next to an outdoor electrical outlet. Contact the power company to have them identify any underground lines. Call the telephone company and cable company as well, if you have these services in your home. Dig a shallow trench along your wiring route.
Use a ditch-witch or a trenching shovel to dig this trench about 3 inches 7. You may need to use the shovel to turn over any sod or grass on your lawn first.
Place the cable in the trench without burying it. Leave about 1 foot 0. Leave a small loop at each planned fixture location as well, so you can connect the wiring to the fixture. Part 2. Run the cable up to the outdoor outlet and strip the end of it. This should leave 2 wires exposed. If the cable has cable nuts, remove them before stripping it.
Attach the 2 exposed wires from the cable to the transformer box. Slide the wires under the 2 screws called terminal screws located on the bottom of the transformer box. Then, use a screwdriver to tighten the top and bottom terminal block set screws to attach the wires to the box. Be sure the screws are tightened all the way to prevent the wires from sliding out. Drive a stake into the ground and attach the transformer to it. Hammer a sturdy wooden stake about 1 foot 0. Then, use the screwdriver to screw the transformer box into the stake to attach it.
Use a screwdriver to drive a screw through the back of the box and into the siding. Part 3. Place your fixtures about where you intend to install them. Lay the light fixtures alongside your cable, keeping them about 8 to 10 feet 2. Dig a narrow hole on the spot where you plan to put 1 of the fixtures. Make the depth of the hole the same as the length of the stake.
Your light fixtures should have come with stakes, if you purchased them from a store. Connect the fixture wires to the main cable. Take the 2 connector halves hanging from the bottom of the light fixture and slip them over the cable. Then, pinch them together until you hear a click. This is the sound of the connectors making a connection with the wires inside the cable.
Attach the fixture to the stake, then push the stake into the ground. Use both hands to grip the stake with the fixture attached to it and push it into the narrow hole you dug for it. However, some manufacturers ask that you use a screw and screwdriver to attach the two. If the back box or pattress is metal, note how the wires come into the box and if the holes where the wires come through have a grommet, which will be a black flexible rubber ring, then it is likely that the wires to the box are run in plastic conduit.
However if you observe from within the box large metal nuts, then you can be confident that there is metal conduit, either side of this box. Looking at the top of the box, see if there is only one wire coming in through a central hole. If there are 2 knock out holes in the backing and only one has been used, then it may be possible to chase a slot in the wall, going up to where the light fitting wire will go through to the exterior wall above the second unused pattress hole.
Your aim is to judge whether you can cut a slot in the plaster or render of about 12mm x 12mm to house mini trunking of 12mm by 8mm, without affecting the existing wiring. The new wiring to the light needs to be run in the trunking, either buried in the wall, if you can safely do this, or it will have to be surface mounted, to link with a surface mounted 16mm plastic pattress.
You are seeking to create an additional live feed to the lantern. Next, take the mini-trunking, measure the distance from the switch to the height of where the lantern will be positioned on the outside of the wall, add a short length for tolerance and cut the mini-trunking with a hacksaw or cutters. Offer this up to the interior of the wall and using a spirit level, ensure this trunking is plumb. Mark either side of the mini-trunking with a pencil.
So within the two pencil lines you are looking to chase the wall to a sufficient depth to bury the mini-trunking, which will encase the wire, allowing for plaster filler when decorating afterwards. Having determined the point at which you are going to drill though the wall, with a centre punch or other pointed object tap an indentation in the wall with a hammer, to prevent the drill bit slipping from the mark.
Drilling through from outside to inside or vice-versa is not really critical, what is important is that you do not break out a chunk of brickwork or plasterwork, when breaking through. Knowing the thickness of your wall, from the tip of your drill bit, measure this distance and affix some insulation tape minus 10 — 15mm to the drill bit. Whether you use a conventional hammer drill or a percussion drill usually with an SDS type chuck, the idea is to turn off the hammer action when the tape marking reaches the wall edge and the final few millimetres is with rotary action only.
This should prevent and significant break out from either side. With a clean hole, check that your wire will go through from one side to the other. Fix the mini-trunking within the chased wall if using that method , or use the self adhesive at the back of the trunking, by peeling away the protective film and mounting on the inner wall surface.
If you are using the second, spare pattress hole, knock the circular disk out from the top of the box, with a screwdriver and remove the disc with a pair of pliers.
Fix a grommet to the hole. Now feed your wire through the hole, carefully pull it through then fix it into the mini trunking and through your drilled hole, to the outside. Leave sufficient cable on either side to allow for final trimming and adjustment.
If using surface mounted mini-trunking then you will need to add a 16mm surface mounted plastic pattress. The lantern is usually fixed to the wall using a metal plate, fixed to the wall with screws and rawlplugs : see DIY Doctor Project on Fixing Items to Masonry.
The wiring goes through the plate. The individual wires fitted to the terminal blocks behind the face cover of the lantern. From inside and ensuring the lighting circuit is switched off, prepare the new wiring to be partnered to the existing wire.
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